My Personal Guide For "Getting To Know - And Love - Oaxaca"

Oaxaca Adventure
Sample Itinerary
http://paxonbothhouses.blogspot.com/2015/04/pax-on-both-houses-to-limit-new-posts.html

Dear K,

Thanks for your email.

I'll interweave my comments into your text below.

On Wed, Jan 10, 2018 at 9:34 AM, KA wrote:

Alan.  Thanks for this message.

Don't know how much of the itinerary you speak of would be achievable in our time together, but look forward to it.  We are reading up to target sites;some of which you have mentioned. ALAN: I'm waiting to get confirmtion from my fellow band members concerning a fresh offer to play at Nash Street Tavern on March 9th which will make my probable departure for Oaxaca on March 11th or 12th (possibly the 10th).

Some questions on funds:

You recommend to carry $500-1000 U.S. dollars above amt for Eduardo. ALAN: I will check with Eduardo to see if he (or friends and relatives) are looking to buy dollars with pesos.

Do you have a rough estimate of what an average daily per person pesos usage would be (understand relative); where the usage of credit or dollars is not likely?  I would like to get a decent amt of pesos before we leave. ALAN: Depending on "expectations" and "standards," the amount people spend on goods-and-services is exceedingly variable. You can get a simple but satisfying breakfast for $3. $5 dollars will fill you up. As I recall, the neighborhood where you and Cathy will lodge is rich with good, moderately-priced restaurants, cafes, bakeries and corner stores and one city-sponsored marketplace where small vendors set up under "the big roof". If you eat at "comedores populares" (little "people's eateries" like the provident women's homes in Jalatlaco) you can probably lunch well for $5.00, no more than $7.00. A good dinner at a not-too-tony restaurant will probably cost $10 to $12. $5 to $7 will enable you to feast at "pick-your-own-meat-and-vegetable stalls" in (or near) the entrance to Mercado 20 de Noviembre (just south of the main square or zocalo). Although remodelling forced this unique "food court" onto to the streets a couple years ago, these fascinating "food stalls" are probably back inside the east entry-way to 20 de Noviembre Market. You enter this large, high-ceiling space where a couple dozen women-butcher-cooks and a corresponding number of vegetable venders are eager to feed you. Look around for awhile, then choose the woman-butcher-cook who appeals to you most. One of the women's helpers from an adjacent vegetable stand will hold out a woven basket while you point to the vegetables you'd like to have roasted alongside the very thinly sliced cut-of-meat you select. (These cuts are often called "tasajo" or "cecina" but since all cuts hang from racks that are in plain view, you simply point to the particular cut you want. After choosing your meat and vegetables, you will take a seat at a nearby table -- choc-a-block with "local oaxaquenos" -- and your cooked food gets delivered to your table 10-15 minutes later. I find this way of eating thoroughly delightful, although, as always, no "life experience" is to everyone's liking.

Are you saying that Eduardo would/might be an on going source to exchange for pesos?

What is recommended for 'tipping'; such as restaurants, drivers, etc.  From what I have read in travel guides, it appears that many people we might interface with could use the extra income. Alan: If you see a stated "IVA" (value-added tax) already included on a printed-out bill at a "proper" sit down restaurant, you do not need to leave a separate tip, although a blanket 15% tip directly to your "mesero" or "mesera" (table waiter) is VERY welcome. I think most taxis you'll take in the central part of town will cost about $3 to $4 dollars. I always tip taxi drivers a buck if they also help me with baggage. Again, tips are a very important source of income for workers in the service industries. Always ask in advance the cost of a taxi ride to your stated destination. And if there happens to be a taxi meter (and until recently there were very few meters) make sure the gauge is returned to $0.00 before the trip begins. My experience with Mexican taxi drivers has always been good so I do not expect any irregularities. But it cannot hurt to "cover" yourself with the simple protocols I describe. If you wish to say, "How much does it cost from here to my destination?", say "Cuanto cuesta de aqui' hasta mi destino en la calle such and such?" Or you can name a landmark... e.g. "Cuanto cuesta de aqui' al zocalo?" Or "al catedral" ("How much does it cost from here to the main square/cathedral?"). Or, "Cuanto cuesta a Iglesia Santo Domingo" (Santo Domingo Church). Or "Cuanto cuesta de aqui' a mi departamento en la Privada los Pinos". ("How much does it cost from here to my apartment on Privada los Pinos?") As I recall, Privada los Pinos is located in Barrio Reforma - a neighborhood well worth exploring since it is a very comfortable, cultured place to live. There are no "grand sites" to see in barrio La Reforma but LOTS of enjoyable "people watching" while drinking coffee or a beer at an outdoor table. Mentioning the name of your neighborhood will be helpful to at least some taxi drivers who may not be aware of your small, gated side street. 

What electrical adapters are needed in Oaxaca? ALAN: The Mexican electrical system is basically identical to the U.S. electrical system, although you may want to bring a small spike bar to protect cellphones from power surges. I don't think power surges are a huge issue in Mexico but it might be a simple "preventive measure."

Converters!! Do I need one?? - Cancun Forum - TripAdvisor

https://www.tripadvisor.com › ... › Quintana Roo › Cancun › Cancun Travel Forum

The electricity in Mexico is 110/120 volts. If you're coming from anywhere in North America, then no,you don't need a converter. If you're coming from the UK, then yes, you may need a converter. Most electronics (iPhones, MP3 players, cell phones) come with a built in converter and many hairdryers, curling wands and ...

Mexico: power plug adapter needed? | POWER PLUGS AND ...

https://www.power-plugs-sockets.com/us/mexico/

When living in the United States of America you don't need a power plug adapter in Mexico. Your power plugs fit. We recommend you to pack a 3 to 2 prong adapter in case type B sockets are not available. Your appliances with plug A and plug B fit.

Do you need a power adapter for Mexico? - YouTube

▶ 1:29

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWKmIE-OHWI

Sep 16, 2015 - Uploaded by TeamAwesome

You do not need a power adapter or power converter when you travel from the US into Mexico. This video ...

I seem to recall reading somewhere that we need document (visa maybe) beyond our passport.  Any truth to that? ALAN: Although the following weblink is waaayyyyyy more complicated than the simple information you and Cathy actually need, I include it if only to stress the CRITICAL IMPORTANCE of keeping track of the small card the customs agent will give you at the Oaxaca airport as you go through customs. You MUST PRESENT this card before you can leave Mexico and it is a costly hassle to replace. https://www.tripsavvy.com/documents-needed-for-mexico-travel-3150203 To get into Mexico, I believe you still need nothing more than a U.S. passport that is valid for at least 6 months after your date of entry to Mexico. Plus you will need to fill out the tourist card(s) that airline personnel will give you aboard your flight. As I recall, there are two such cards (or perhaps the "two" cards are part of one single card). One part/card declares what you are bringing into Mexico, and the other part/card serves as the tourist card which the customs agent will return to you after stamping your passport. This card is the same card you must keep track of in order to leave the country. I strongly encourage you and Cathy to wear fanny packs for your passports and other valuables, and to make sure your fanny packs are situated over your lower abdomen, NOT over your fanny or hip. Also, write down your passport and tourist card numbers and leave them at your apartment (or email them to yourselves) so that this information is available in the unlikely event of loss or theft. As mentioned before, there is some pick-pocketing in the market district just south of the zocalo/main square/plaza mayor. Pickpocketing takes the form of "the bump and run." Usually, pickpockets work in pairs, although you will only see one of them. The pickpocket you see appears to be drunk, drug-stupefied, or a simpleton. Typically, this "drunk, druggie, simpleton" will push into the front of your body on a busy street and keep pushing against your torso while, more often than not you experience a kind of compassionate sympathy (combined with irksomeness) directed at the "poor fellow." Meanwhile, during your COMPLETE DISTRACTION, the OTHER pickpocket approaches you from behind. You will be TOTALLY UNAWARE of his presence because you're preoccupied with THE PUSHY IDIOT in front of you.  While distracted, this second fellow (behind you) goes through your pockets and will unzip your fanny pack to pilfer its contents too. It may take a moment to realize that you are in the midst of a "bump and run," but as soon as you suspect you are a "target," start waving your arms vigorously up-and-down to create a windmill effect that pushes away the arms of the co-conspirator who is picking your pocket from behind. While "windmilling," swirl around and yell REALY LOUD at the sonofabitch. It can't hurt to shout "Ladron!!!" (accenting the second syllable). If the thieves have taken something, people in the crowd might apprehend them, thus giving you a chance to recover what may have been lost. But don't get overly concerned by this infrequent menace. In all my travels in Mexico, I have only experienced the "bump and run" once and, in hindsight, I was amazed how I "fell for it" even though I knew how the scam worked. When I realized -- belatedly -- what was going on, I started waving my arms and immediately the pickpockets fled. When I assessed "the damage," I was shocked to see that my fanny pack (carried right over my genitals) had been completely unzipped by the "invisible guy" behind me and my camera was dangling half way out of my bag. Fortunately, my passport and tourist card, which I had deliberately buried at the bottom of my fanny pack (to make them the most difficult things to "get out of my pack") had not been touched. 

I'm quite certain that the passport and tourist card information I am giving you is up-to-date. However, since "things change," please contact a travel agent -- you should be able to get certain information by phoning AAA -- to know which documents you'll need to travel in Mexico. 

I will also take a moment to mention some of my favorite restaurants. On the second floor of the building at the southwest corner of the zocalo-main-square-plaza mayor is a splendid restaurant called "El Asador Vasco." https://www.yelp.com/biz/asador-vasco-oaxaca-2 While walking around Oaxaca -- which you are likely to do most days -- stop in El Asador Vasco the day before or earlier on the same day you plan to eat there and make a balcony reservation so that you can look out on the main square while eating. Make clear that you want a "mesa al lado de la reja de donde se puede asomar al zocalo." If you arrive between 6 and 7, your table will probably be visited by wandering mariachi musicians. If you don't want to pay them, hold up your hand with the back of your hand toward the musicians, smile, and say: "No gracias señores." Even if you don't pay for a table-side concert ($5-$10?), you will be entertained as the mariachi wends its way around the balcony in search of paying customers. Food at El Asador Vasco is very good and moderately pricey. The dish that is my personal favorite here is a reasonably-priced spicey seafood soup called Sopa Istmeña. 

A fairly new restaurant where Janet, Danny and I ate most often during our 2014 (?) stay is called Le Gourmand. Like El Asador Vasco, Le Gourmand is centrally located - about three blocks north of the zocalo and three blocks southwest of Iglesia Santo Domingo. Le Gourmand was founded by the young son of one of Oaxaca's most revered chefs and is operated as a true labor cooperative in which everybody sees themselves as "part of a co-equal team". The founder's wife is a blonde, blue-eyed native of Wisconsin. Janet, Danny and I ate here nearly every night we were in Oaxaca. And after eating, we lingered at our table for another hour playing a version of 3 handed euchre we invented. Le Gourmand is a thoroughly enjoyable restaurant-charcuterie with a wide selection of craft beers including one they produce in-house.  https://www.yelp.com/biz/gourmand-oaxaca?osq=le+gourmand

I am also very fond of Mezzaluna pizzeria/restaurant just a couple blocks from Iglesia Santo Domingo. Mezzaluna gets mixed reviews on Yelp but I agree with "the glowing reports" rather than the guy who complained about slow service. If you order a whole pizza, you can watch the Mexican chef "twirl the dough into being," first flinging it high in the air, then "shoveling" it into the blazing firewood oven. A sight to be seen! One downstairs dining room is quite dark so either eat on the rooftop (where there are splendid views especially on nights when Oaxaca is "exploding" with fireworks), or choose the charming dining room that looks out on the street through tall colonial windows. Never hesitate to walk around restaurants to see what "rooms" are available before choosing where to sit. https://www.yelp.com/biz/mezzaluna-oaxaca-oaxaca

And although there are a TON of good restaurants in Oaxaca, another one I will mention is just half a block down the street from Iglesia Santo Domingo. "Le Crepe" -- which is on the second floor above a posh garden atrium restaurant and has two small balconies perfectly suited for two people -- provides very good food at modest cost. If you like crepes, this restaurant will be near the top of your list for breakfast, although the surprisingly large menu (for such a small place) offers good lunches and dinners as well. https://www.yelp.com/biz/la-crepe-oaxaca-3

Although I have previously mentioned my favorite Oaxaca neighborhood, cobble-stoned Jalatlaco (and the "motherly" eateries you will find there), check out La Toscana, a grand restaurant in a beautiful "fountain space." La Toscana is operated by friend/acquaintance Eugenio/Eusebio (?) and his wife who, just a few years ago, opened a boutique mezcaleria downtown. Eugenio may remember me by name but more likely as the tall, white-haired gringo who speaks Spanish. It would be fun for you to sit down with him for a few minutes. I think he speaks English and you might spend a couple minutes learning about his downtown mezcaleria so that -- on another night -- you could check out his "hot spot." https://www.yelp.com/biz/la-toscana-oaxaca 

La Toscana and El Asador Vasco are the priciest places on my list -- though not excessively so -- especially for "what you get."

Le Gourmand is surprisingly economical for such a GREAT, "make yourself at home" restaurant (and charcuterie).

Le Crepe also offers very good value for money.

But The Prize Winner for delicious MEXICAN food (at low cost) is Tacos Alvaro. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g150801-d1762636-Reviews-Tazuerias_y_Pozolerias_Alvaro-Oaxaca_Southern_Mexico.html I think Tacos Alvaro are four branches around town, but the one I always use is near the northwestern corner of Oaxaca's historic district, not far from your place on Privada Los Pinos. At least once, I encourage you to split a bowl of their pozole, perhaps the most traditional Mexican soup, dating back millennia. 

PS While writing this letter, the band has accepted the March 9th gig. I will make book my Oaxaca flight later today and send you a copy of my itinerary.

Thanks for fielding all of this 

Have a great day

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On Mon, Jan 8, 2018 at 11:44 AM, Alan Archibald

<alanarchibaldo@gmail.com> wrote:

On Mon, Jan 8, 2018 at 9:20 AM, KA wrote:

Good morning.  Your understanding is accurate; with a couple unknowns.  If/when you come early (3/6-15):

1.  We don't have a clear understanding of our apartment layout; and if it might be suitable as a place for you to lay your head, vs you renting a place.  And if it ends up being just a few days, I think anything is possible. Alan: If I go to Oaxaca, I think it would be best for me to reside in my usual hostel prior to March 15th. 

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g150801-d1656084-r186272670-Casa_Angel_Youth_Hostel-Oaxaca_Southern_Mexico.html (If you pay Casa Angel directly, a night's lodging costs under $10 and includes a great breakfast with a limitless supply of organic eggs, fresh squeezed orange juice, and rafts of fresh fruit.

We leave on the 3/15 so apt open for you.

2.  We would look forward to your guidance experience and potential time together.  Time spent together can be determined with input from both parties.  We should discuss what sites you might be thinking.  This will help in our planning.  Alan: Although you are welcome to undertake any adventure on your own, I do want to visit Puerto Angel while in Oaxaca. This visit would also include visits to Zipolite, Puerto Escondido and Mazunte (if the road is open that far). Also, the "day trip" with Santours down the eastern valley -- which includes visits to the Tule Tree, a mezcal factory, Mitla and Hierve el Agua is on my agenda, partly because, generally speaking, the craft market in Mitla is the least expensive place to get many handcrafts and artisan goods. http://www.turismosantours.com/ Although the Santour "day tour" that includes Cuilapan has many other stops, the buffet lunch restaurant on that tour is a marvelous place - with a vast selection of really good food in a charming neo-colonial environment managed by kind, helpful people wearing traditional Mexican garment. Another GREAT place is Oaxaca's Regional Museum in the ex-convent adjacent to Iglesia Santo Domingo. EVERYTHING about this place is marvelous -- the stunning architecture as well as "the collections" which are very good and not so vast that you "get lost" in a welter of "detail." I think I would be a useful guide to the Regional Museum, although once again, if you want to visit on your own, please do. And if by the time of my arrival you still haven't visited the 20th de Noviembre market just south of the main square, I can help you navigate that maze (which is the only place where pick pockets are a minor problem). Visiting this busy market (and surrounding market spaces) will give you a good sense of traditional Mexican marketing which many Mexicanis still do daily. In-and-around 20th de Noviembre we would also have opportunity to eat at "stands" which are -- all by themselves -- something to behold. We could also visit the weekly, largely indigenous market in outlying Zaachila --- specializing in livestock. We could also replicate the delightful all-day cab trip Janet, Danny and I took to President Benito Juarez' hometown and other points north - a completely different, cooler, forested ecosystem. Plus I can show you many interesting sites by walking around Oaxaca city, including the marvelous Basilica de la Soledad and the nearby religious-statuary-and-religious-artefact store whose wares are stunning. One day we would visit Jalatlaco, the charming colonial neighborhood that "time lost." Jalatlaco is the neighborhood where I would prefer to lodge from the middle of January to the middle of March in 2019. Jalatlaco is famous for delicious "eateries" operated "out of" women's kitchens with tables set in their living rooms. 

One possibility we are considering is a visit to Mexico City.  Possibly an overnight(s) during our six weeks, or tying it to our departure, where we would spend day or so prior to our departure; and leave directly from city rather than from Oaxaca, if it doesn't create an airline issue).  Might this be of any interest to you? Alan: I would not be interested in visiting Mexico City because there is so much I want to do in-and-around Oaxaca. I haven't been to Mexico City (or D.F. for "Distrito Federal" as it's often called) since I was there in the late sixties although Spanish teacher friend Mark Slattery (who spent two years with the Peace Corps in Guatemala) visited with his companion Scott a few years ago and they LOVED it. I seem to recall they've gone back since. Here are a couple of links (from the travel sites I trust most) which will help orient you to Mexico City: 

https://wikitravel.org/en/Mexico_City  ///   https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g150800-Mexico_City_Central_Mexico_and_Gulf_Coast-Vacations.html  ///  https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowForum-g150800-i164-Mexico_City_Central_Mexico_and_Gulf_Coast.html  I would not be surprised if you enjoyed your trip to Mexico City most by visitng at the end of your stay, then leaving directly from Mexico City without returning to Oaxaca. Be sure that "missing your return flight in Oaxaca" doesn't jeopardize the rest of your return reservation.

Couple monetary questions.

1.  Is Eduardo wanting U.S. dollars or pesos? Alan: I've forgotten the exact sum Eduardo is charging for "The Loft" but you can find that number in my archived email. I seem to recall it was around $400 per month. The plan is for you to pay Eduardo in U.S. dollars. The best way to finance daily "operation" in Mexico is through Charles Schwab "One Card," a debit card which allows you to use any bank ATM in the world without surcharges. You do pay a surcharge at the time of your ATM withdrawal but the surcharge is refunded to your account in the next month or two. Here is a webpage that seems to provide good, trustworthy information. 

https://www.uscreditcardguide.com/charles-schwab-visa-platinum-debit-card-no-atm-fee-wordwide-en/ Since you will pay Eduardo some $800 on the way to your lodging coming in from the airport, I would encourage you to have at least an additional $500.00 in cash - and maybe $1000.00 assuming it's too late to get your Schwab One Card in time for departure. Speaking of which...  Begin the process of securing your Schwab One card immediately. (Gerald, Janet and I all use the Schwab One card abroad. And if you cannot insure card issuance prior to your departure, check to see whether Schwab can mail the card to you in Oaxaca.) Credit cards can be used to purchase the goods and services you might need, but often vendors who accept cards are "upscale" and therefore most costly, whereas the "family-based vendors" you will often want to use do NOT accept credit cards. A final note... Since we know that Eduardo and his wife are accumulating dollars, you can probably "sell" your dollars to him at a favorable exchange rate. Here is a list of credit cards that do not charge international transaction fees - a 3% savings. https://wallethub.com/credit-cards/no-foreign-transaction-fee/?v=21 "Capital One" cards are excellent, in part because their customer service is excellent. If you cannot get a Capital One (or other "no-transaction-fee" card) issued in time for your departure, I think I can add you and Cathy to my own Capital One account so you can piggy-back on me. 

2.  Bank of America has a relationship with Scotia bank (multiple branches in Oaxaca), making access to funds what appears easily available.  However, any thoughts on how much cash (U.S. or pesos) to initially carry, especially to cover Eduardo.  I think we plan on credit cards for many, especially any large, purchases.  I assume most establishments accept.  Alan: Check with Bank of America to learn if Scotia Bank (a good bank) waives commissions for purchasing pesos with dollars. If not, the relationship between BofA and Scotia Bank could come down to commercial "smoke and mirrors." (I should also mention that bank "lines" for any transaction can be very long. There are also many "Casas de Cambio" (money exchange stalls) where wait time is usually zero although the exchange rate at "Casas de Cambio" is often unfavorable.

Hope this helps clarify a little.  Thanks

Enjoy, Kevin

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Sun, Jan 7, 2018 at 3:35 PM, Alan Archibald

<alanarchibaldo@gmail.com> wrote:

Dear K,

I hope you are all well.

I'm still debating whether to visit Oaxaca in March.

If I recall correctly, you suggested the possibility that I come during your final week -- approximately March 6 through March 15. 

During that week, I think your idea was that I could show you some of the things I value about Oaxaca which you and Cathy may not have discovered during the earlier part of your stay.

Then, after spending March 6 through March 15 in my own lodging -- perhaps on Cerro Fortin -- I could occupy your apartment on Privada los Pinos for the last two weeks of March after you and Cathy leave Oaxaca on March 15th.

Assuming I understand the broad outline of your invitation correctly, I want to make sure Cathy likes the idea of undertaking shared activity. If she is concerned about spending a lot of time together (when perhaps she would enjoy having more time to herself), we could -- for example -- meet for a meal together every second day while undertaking "adventures" on the days in between.

Whatever activity level you and Cathy are comfortable with, is fine with me.

I just want to make sure I understand what y'all have in mind.

Thanks!

I look forward to your reply.

Paz contigo

Alan